Prom, or Safari in the Serengeti

I have to admit: finding a good safari company is a lot like picking the best date for prom. You skip about from this storefront office to the next, careful to glance over your shoulder lest the last smitten tour operator should notice and become jealous. You start to feel a bit two-timey and cheap, hopping in and out of this free ride and the next, worried one might catch you cheating with another. You dread the explanation of But I was only just looking to see what he offered! about as much as that regular check-up at the dentist’s after six months of non-stop candy-coated sugar-eating bliss and chewy nougat. As I made my way through the thick of them, substituting phone and email conversations when I had donned as much as I could bear to wear in disguise- super-sized sunglasses, hair up this day and down the next, hoodies, long pants/capris/skirts, some days I even adopted a slight limp- I came upon two companies upon recommendation of a good friend.

Map of the Serengeti

The first seemed like a steal, something that should have been a red flag at the first. Usually this points to some sort of shady dealing (though all companies seem to engage in some) that typically means a staff member or two is being shafted. After all, when have you known a company to cut its own profit for anyone? 

Dozens of smiling photos of pre-safari families, friends, and couples posing with one of the lead managers adorned the walls of the office as I entered, though surprisingly there was not a single after-photo to speak of. After three hours of continuous pitching, convincing, proffering of bottles of water and eventually sticks of mishkaki (kebabs), I finally relented, agreeing to send a message to my friends that it looked like we had found a great deal. With indefatigable insistence, he asked if I wouldn’t just sign and make a deposit now, how easy was it just to pop by the bank? Growing both weary and suspicious, I remained steadfast in my refusal upon consultation with the marafiki (friends) who would be joining me. Four more encouraging texts that evening and finally silence.

That night the onslaught of bad press that was uncovered online, including a stream of vicious Trip Advisor commentary (launched by none other than said company against disgruntled customers) cemented our ultimate refusal much to the chagrin of the ever-smiling and persistent operator. After several polite, yet firm, messages of our decision to look elsewhere, suddenly I felt trapped by what I can only describe as a lover scorned. The text messages went from curious to clipped and disdainful to pleading in a matter of hours. It was necessary to stop answering my phone. When I emerged the next day to meet what I hoped would be our last operator (praying at this point, mind you), I was decked out in my wintry best not at all unbefitting the Arusha chill- hat, scarf, two jackets, hair tucked beneath a hood, glasses. No way Mr. Persistent would recognize me. I didn’t recognize me!

With Elia, General Manager of Scandic Safari

When I signed with Scandic Safari after about thirty minutes of explanation and minimal coaxing- though I was offered an icy cold Coke to slake my kiu (thirst)- I had seen all the signs that I had finally met my corsage-toting counterpart for the three-day event that was to be our safari prom: he seemed genuinely indifferent as to whether or not we would sign; every girl's dream of the guy playing-hard-to-get who ignores her instead of asking her out! Actually, it signaled to me that he was not desperately in need of the cash, a sign I took of regular customer flow. He demonstrated exactly where we would go on a map and wrote up a full itinerary with times when requested. He was able to break down the costs of the trip with little hesitation. And the great clincher- he bought me lunch. Call me easy, but I was sold.

Heather and Becca cough up the dough in Tz shillings and dollars. 

Two weeks later, with Becca and Heather in tow, we embarked on our first ever safari through Ngorongoro Crater (world’s largest inactive, unfilled, volcanic caldera teeming with wildlife) and, you guessed it…the Serengeti. I read this warning message on a list of reminders pre safari and couldn’t help but chuckle: “There are some roads that may be very bumpy. Supportive clothing (as in a comfrotable bra) is recommended during these trips.”

Without further adieu, our TOP TEN(ish) MOMENTS ON SAFARI:

#1 Day 1: Somewhat foolish tourist is taken by surprise as these not-so-friendly foes encircled her and one grabbed round her waist to make off with her lunch sandwich. Baboons yikes!

Mmm boxed lunches

Baboon Mama and Baby

Take heed

#2 Day 1: In the middle of the night I woke to what I thought were little mongooses scampering about our campsite, only to learn the next day that wailing and laughing hyenas were not too far away scavenging for meaty leftovers from predators or careless humans. 

Not always laughing, hmm?

Campers beware

Mongooses/Mongeese

#3 Day 2: Two dik diks, creatures that resemble miniature Bambis with mohawks, tee off in a dance-fight mimicry that is part of the mating ritual. These lovely little ones mate for life. Take that nature-induced polyamory!

Dik Dik mating dance 

On the hunt!

#4 Day 2: Crouching elephant, hidden campsite. Daring Dumbo makes his way into the frigid campsite inside Ngorongoro Conservation Area and is scared away by several of the safari driver-guides and porters. Interesting tidbit: Unlike the Serengeti which is a National Park, Ngorongoro as a Conservation Area which means that human inhabitants can be given special permission to dwell there permanently, such as the Masaai people.

Bottom left!

Careful. Elephant Crossing!

Serengeti National Park

Sunrise on the Serengeti

 #5 Day 2: Lions on the prowl between safari cars. These early morning felines seem to take no notice at the diesel-guzzling machines in their midst. Not even in a last minute dash for a Thompson’s gazelle after nearly thirty minutes of laying in waiting in the grass.

Lions prowl between cars

Lioness in waiting

As lunch makes a break for it

Grr baby grr; somewhere Circle of Life is playing on loop

#6 Day 2: And is it? Oh yes it is! A pair of hunting cheetahs!! The speed demons of the wild who run faster than any other land mammal and are much more rarely spotted on safari than their clambering feline cousins, the lions.

Sleek, slender, and graceful. My favorite predator yet. Where were they in Lion King?!

Cheetah prey? Pretty formidable

Safari-ing like a champ

#7 Day 3: Becca savoring a delicious chicken drumstick before she unwittingly becomes the target of a very sharp-eyed (and talon-ed) hawk/falcon/bird of prey that swoops in for a quick lunch.

Lunchtime on the lake

Swooping in for the kill (of cooked meat)!

#8 Day 3: A childhood favorite- lakeside flamingos peppered the waters of Ngorongoro Crater while zebras, water buffaloes, and wildebeest grazed in the distance.

One flamingo, two flamingo, three flamingo, more!

Pale pink flamingos take a drink

#9 Day 3: We may have missed the Great Migration through northern Serengeti, but that does not mean we did not get to savor a few moments caught in the midst of the wildebeest herds just the same!

You killed Mufasa!!

Like a painting, but it's real!!

 #10 Day 3: In what I can only take as an act of love and/or companionship, two adorable zebras nestle neck on neck in a fond embrace. Way to close a truly stunning and spectacular trip.

Play time!

Best image yet. L.O.V.E. Love.

Three gals and a safari car

We may have been completely blind through the night without flashlights and spent most of our time tracking other safari cars equipped with radios, and at times had to goad our guide into sharing his wealth of knowledge on the wildlife, but some of that just adds character to the visit, eh?  For a budget safari, I really can’t complain. How often do you get to say you camped in the Serengeti with hyenas nibbling at your tent? Not too often I’d guess ;)

(More photos to come on Facebook!)