Sunday, February 27, 2011

Mai chai, my lord, not I!

Today's Thoughts...

The past week flew by in a blur. Returning from a jaunt to the islands, I dove headfirst into final preparations for our end of year performance of “Twelfth Night.” The show was a smashing success to say the least thanks to the incredible efforts of a winning cast. Roughly two hundred in attendance, laughing themselves into stitches at the wily antics and shenanigans of my fantastic students, the audience lavished them with laughter and praise as they bounded their way through the performance. After two months of intense rehearsals and prep, the necessary setbacks/delays/and panic-inducing complications of organizing anything on a college campus, three cheers and a hearty brava say I!

It was perhaps the weekend of drama as it were with another series of one-act performances staged on campus the following day. With everything from spouse-seeking monarchs to Cupid’s fatal arrow to the spine-tingling horror of a chilling wrong call, the variety show seemed most complete. However, with many so gems in the crown, one stone stood apart from the rest. To my surprise, a performance of a play written by a well-known Black playwright was performed… entirely in black face. For reference:Ironically enough, the show centered on the theme of anti-discrimination experienced by a family and their ethnically diverse neighborhood friends. Truth be told, when the curtain went down, my reaction was not anger or sadness nor confusion. Rather, my first thought was-- is that actually what they think I look like?

In a region obsessed with the near-translucent veneer of paleness, it is not at all hard to imagine that the charcoal images I witnessed on the stage were mere reflections of the primary dark-hued figure they see parading before them each day. In a strange way, I felt the utmost kreng jai not for the embarrassment I experienced, but for the creeping fear that I had somehow failed my students. Sure I’d dropped tidbits about MLK and segregation and the historical elements of the turbulent racial past (and present) of America, but did I neglect to impart upon them the significance of racial caricaturization? Did I forget the lesson on minstrelsy and Uncle Tom and memories from Spike Lee’s “Bamboozled”? Or the explanations of the pain, anguish, and resentment conjured by those very images? No I hadn’t. I hadn’t taught about the n-word or Huckleberry Finn or the coonish figures of yore. Because that simply was not relevant to them; it wasn’t their history.
What is relevant to them is the giddy humor with which many not-so-PC and taboo topics of home are lampooned here with ease. Topics they mock with ease each day such as weight, sexuality, attractiveness. I can’t count how many fat cracks or gay jokes I hear on a daily basis, often laughed at and snickered about by the very individuals under the glaring spotlight of peer scrutiny. I’ve no idea of the number of times a student told a friend they were “ooh, so ugly” or that they could “make people cry with that face.” They shrug, laugh, crack a joke themselves and move on with their day, or so it seems. There is something remarkable in that, I must admit, the ability to giggle at our differences and sweep them under the rug. The ability to avoid that proverbial question— Why so serious, na? Because if nothing is all that serious, then I suppose no one gets hurt. If it’s all in good fun, then at the end of the day everyone leaves with a smile on their face.

But in that moment, though willpower curled my lips and dimpled my cheeks, thoughts that swirled like a violent storm were another matter. Sudden self-doubt, worry, concern, and consternation over how to make this a teachable moment, coursed through me. To show them that it was wrong? To berate them for a past that wasn’t theirs? To push them into a reality they knew little of? I decided against all of the above. Because at the end of the day, the lesson was not to be learned about black face; it was about more than that. Their fingers shaking in the quintessential minstrel jazz hands as they closed their performance, they framed a picture perfect image in my mind that I’ll not soon forget. Those tarred figures reflected more than the pigment they represented, in them I saw the larger, darker, gayer, plainer peers they could have just as well been stark reflections of. “Ajarn, it’s like Michael Jackson, but in reverse!” one student exclaimed. And though I chuckled in reply, my thoughts were with those salient members of an otherwise homogenous pool. Yes, the laughter keeps the tears from coming. It likewise belittles an otherwise potentially divisive diverse reality. So while we’re on the stage, in the public eye, magnified and humorized those differences become less real. They just become funny.

I adore my students and love every minute spent with them, yet as I absent-mindedly dog-eared my program, awash with the relief that a chocolate complexion masked the rising heat searing my cheeks, it took great effort to bring my hands together in applause. Call it my hyper-sensitive cultural preoccupations with the ever-changing world of all things politically correct, despite the process of rationalization churning the wheels in my head, the knots in my stomach were inherently hard to stomach. Recollections of those jovially ridiculed individuals drifting through my mind, I couldn’t help but consider: when the curtain goes down on them, what happens to all those smiles? Does the sting that burned in me ever burn in them? Has being labeled as the fat one, the gay one, the ugly one ever left them with the sour taste of disappointment in those they call friends? Or has it ever made them wonder: Is that actually what they think of me?

Monday, February 14, 2011

Give a lil love

Today's Thoughts...


Today is Valentine’s Day. That wonderful day filled with effusive warmth, love, and joy, emanating in a bright band that hugs the globe jubilantly. For all the snap crackle pop of heart shaped fireworks and squishy cuddliness of inflatable heart creatures, one would think Thailand had simply exploded with pinky love just for the occasion. Today in fact, I had my own unexpected Valentine I met while perusing the aisles, or rather, squirming awkwardly near the register, at 7-11. I pulled up this morning at our campus convenience store ready for a scrumptious breakfast treat. As I waited for the attendant to finish preparing my meal— a rubbery pork burger on a bun with a generous squirt of cheese-like sauce— a slow fear crept over me as my palm pressed itself once and then twice and then three times against the empty inside of my bag. Except exactly 11.5 baht I managed to shake out, I was dead broke. My wallet was nowhere to be found. As I dually explained my lack of purchasing power in Thai and in pantomime, I gingerly backed away from the counter, throwing my hands up in a replica of the gesture I get so often whenever I question store clerks-- a cross between sheer confusion and instinctual flight. So I fled, steaming pork bun sandwich still on the counter, and made quite the show of tearing through my bag outside the store just to confirm for all watching that either I was the insane farang they already suspected me to be or that I really had no money. What? Farang? No money? Impossible. To my chagrin, a student I had never seen before ran out after me and offered to pay for my meal. Refusal was not only inappropriate given her insistence, but impossible given my sudden stammering words of surprise. In the end, wai-ing her excessively to our mutual embarrassment, I left the shop, dignity and pork bun in bag. Oh, my funny Valentine.

But my shopping escapades for the day were far from over. In the afternoon in a local shopping center (thanks to the monetary kindness of a fellow teacher friend),after inquiring as to where to purchase a water bottle, I proceeded to what I can only describe as a towering wall of toddler Sippy cups. After staring dumbstruck for about thirty seconds, I began to scan the gargantuan shelf of pastel and neon plastic hydration devices. Most appeared capable of holding approximately a child’s swallow of any liquid, perhaps meant for the trendy appearance of hydration rather than actual refreshment; I couldn’t tell. There were the requisite Hello Kitty bottles, saucer-sized eyes batting thick curlicued lashes my way; the Pooh bear collection complete with various scenes of the friendly carnivore in a multitude of forest and city landscapes; and of course the bright blue Doraemon section, equipped with feline red collar carrying straps. Steadily losing hope, I migrated down the aisle a bit to a more mature section of flaming flamingo pink and shocking electric yellow bottles (calling to mind the brightly colored and flavored Now-and-Later candies of my youth). But even these bottles had alarming curvaceous shapes, contorted in ways I simply found unreasonable and flip top caps an infant could pop open. Imagining my bag sopping wet and the inability to seize hold of the squirming aqua receptacle, not to mention wanting to call as little attention to my beverage gear as possible, I cringed to think of setting it in the break room fridge beside the other ajarns’ sensible cartoon thermoses, drinkable yogurt chugglers, and fruity flavored juice boxes. So I pressed on further to the Siberian end of the bottle collection to a variety of acceptably sized squat, thin, and equally curvaceous bottles with built-in straws. Considering that these bottles bore only the signature neon colored tops rather than the entirety of the bottle, I snagged the soberest I could manage— a respectable clear bottle with periwinkle top— and started out of the aisle. Thinking better of myself, I returned and nabbed the bottle with charcoal grey top and, grinning in joyous approval at my shopping expertise, made my way to the register.

The last time I’d encountered a similar moral shopping dilemma was in selecting appropriate toilet tissue for my apartment. Mildly overwhelmed, I had come up against the likes of jasmine-scented puffs, your tried and true starchy whites, and satiny swathes with added aloe to name a few. At the time, I managed to escape with a modest cottony blend, heeding my mother’s childhood warnings of the potential complications of overly perfumed puffs in the certain inflammation of the loins. Now some might say that if my toughest daily decisions revolve around drinking gourds and latrine paper, my life clearly must be too easy. In fact, numerous have said as much to me. “You must LOVE living here, life is SO much easier than back in the States.” “Isn’t it great to be in such an exotic place where you just don’t have to think all the time?” “How fantastic is it to have everything you need at your fingertips, no hassle, no worries, no cares?” The last time I checked, I wasn’t taking leisure strolls on elephants in my spare time nor lounging in beach chairs downing plates of pad thai. I leave that to the scads of tourists flocking to the region that do that best. In fact, most of my time is spent back hunched over a pile of essays or arched screeching chalk up and down a massive green slab. While it can be a bit of a joy ride to live in a country where Valentine’s Day is a national holiday (doors adorned with heart-shaped wreaths and lawns bedecked with cardboard cutouts of heart pairs with convenient head holes) and picture-taking is a national sport, it in no way invalidates the authenticity and challenges that living even in a cartooned paradise presents. No I don’t have to hike to the nearest well to fetch water for my bath and no, I do not scavenge for berries before lights out at sunset. I haven’t had dysentery or malaria as of yet(knock on wood), nor have I of late been in a state of physical mortal peril. I feel comfortable walking the streets at night and when I want to travel, I hop on my moto and go. But in no way do any of these realities make my daily reality a joke. Too many times have I heard Chiang Mai isn’t rough enough, isn’t “cultured” enough, isn’t Asia enough. What does that even mean?

If rough isn’t nearly killing yourself attempting to drive through monsoons in rainy season; if culture isn’t scaling Doi Suthep and plodding through the mountain towns and villages hidden along its slopes; if Asia isn’t chugging gurgling northern Thai soup, piping hot with chunks of pork blood and fellow colleagues cheering and chanting like it was a kegger, or scarfing down a plate of fermented pork before realizing what a bad idea that was; if none of this is what it means to step out of your cultural bubble and immerse yourself in a world a world away, I truly have no idea what is. Yes, there is a Starbucks and three McDonald’s and perhaps if local food didn't make my glands salivate on a regular basis, I might think to dine there once or twice, but not for the same burgers and fries made to order across the seas, rather for the tunafish pies and thai tea smoothy-floaties so characteristic of those vendors here. Certainly I have Internet access and can download videos on YouTube and songs from iTunes, but my recent playlist has included “Rak Mai Tahng Gan Wayla” from new cinematic favorite “Guan Muen Ho” and music videos of the bands I get hooked on in clubs. My experience may be a bit more urban, Chiang Mai might be a comfortable city, but walking down the street I roam ancient wats erected generations ago by the founders of this fair city; I chat with merchants in the market, trading guava and grins as our daily commerce; I race on my moto to umbrella festivals and flower parades; and when I wake in the morning I breathe the combined funk of exhaust fumes and mountain vapors, mingling in the early dawn before the smog settles.

Just because I don’t come home drained by the very effort of living through the day, doesn’t mean my days in Chiang Mai aren’t every bit as worth living through. In fact, because they infuse me with the will to keep them going, to have stayed in this beautiful city and country for the past two years, I cherish them more than anything. Though equally inspiring and invigorating, I don’t need to walk a dirt road or journal by candlelight for that to be true. As it turns out, truthfully I’d rather hike up my skirts for a squatter in a roadside shack than risk a chafed jasmine-scented derriere any day. It just so happens that in and around Chiang Mai, I can do both.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

These Drops of Mine

Today's Thoughts...

There are days when I leave work and want to throw myself out the nearest open window. Or, at the very least, hurl myself into a shallow pit. Fortunately, those days are few and far between. More often are the days like today, when something within me swells with pride and makes me want to tear up and cry: “Hercules! Hercules!” to egg my students on. (Okay, humor me; channeling Nutty Professor here, anyone?, anyone?)

The assignment was to pick a controversial topic and present your opinions and the facts about the issue to persuade your classmates for your cause. Now when I assigned this, I had some idea of what to expect: at least six presentations on global warming, three about the dangers of smoking/alcohol/insert teenage vice here,two on abortion, and probably at least one on an altogether unrelated topic like sports cars. I was not disappointed. Yet in sifting through the well-intentioned chaff, heaving several exhausted sighs as I did, a few gems sparkled with a luster that outdid all the rest. A winning plea to galvanize stay-at-home moms, an introspective critique on the inflated value of higher education as the sole route to success, a witty piece questioning the age-old attraction to “that guy,” the James Dean as it were (tall, dark, handsome, and wrong for you in every way). Even a clever creation denouncing the censure of adult films; the most sound pro-porn argument I think I’ve ever heard.

But with the theme of controversy there is always the one, that one, that stands out from the rest, that tugs at the dull senses, numbed after endless claps and score sheets. Exhausted, struggling to keep my lids open, and desperately wishing I had drank that Coke sitting at my desk, I waited as a student took the floor. Cloaked in the mane that cascaded around her shoulders, she stood up a little straighter (how she was balancing on her four inch platforms I don't think I'll ever understand) and my giggly room fell hushed. Noticing the visible tremor that rippled through the class, I could only think that the others were prepared for something I was not. Her friends sat attentively. Compact mirrors and tweezers slid back into their cases and mobiles into jeans and purses. I too sat up a bit straighter, waiting to hear what she would have to say.

“Good morning, um, afternoon teacher and my friends. Today, I would like to speak about a topic that is very close to me.” The preamble I had heard at least three dozen times already that day. “Today we have already heard about why we should not discriminate against people with disabilities in employment in our country. Well, I would like to speak about another form of discrimination, not only in employment, although that is what I want to focus on." She cleared her throat and took a deep breath. "If you were the owner of a company, would you hire a transgendered person to work for you?” I tried to force myself not to squirm. Sudden vigorous nods and vocal ‘yes!’ “Would you call them ma’m or madam if they asked you to?” Another ‘yes!’ “Would you hire a gay or a lesbian too? Show them the same respect as all other workers?” ‘Yes! Yes!’ at least another half dozen ‘yes!’

“Thank you. But the world is not as kind as this classroom.” Silence. “People do not treat us with respect. Whatever we are and whoever we are, we are a community, we are people and people should be treated with respect. Many transgendered people are not. For example, so many would like to be airline hostess. Of all the airlines in our country, did you know that only a very few even consider to hire people like me. And they require that they must have the sex operation and change their voices first. From this, only three transgendered women can work in the airlines here. Three? That’s nothing. We are millions in Thailand and millions in the world, maybe billions.” I could feel my chest constrict. “But we aren’t treated as if we matter. It’s like we don’t even exist. But we are not invisible. We live next to you, with you, around you. We are you because we are human just like everyone else. My blood is as red as yours and my tears are just as real. That's why I believe we should not be an invisible community any more. Thank you.” She was shaking, I was shaking, the raucous applause was deafening.

I can only think to the cosmos for the strange order of things in this life. It just so happens that in another of my classes, we are dissecting Shakespeare’s “Merchant of Venice.” In a country where, like the Jews of Shylock's time, the kra-theuys of Thailand and the world are shamed, insulted, demeaned, ignored, and more often viewed as garish Barbies on display than human beings in need of the same affections and respect afforded all others. She had once joked that she asked a dorm assistant if she rented a dorm would she be placed in the men's ward or the women's, and upon hearing the former, remarked, "Well at least he'll be one lucky guy!" Yet even in jest, her words gave me pause because it was and is wrong. Wrong. Just wrong. Standing in front of her classmates, her words rang true to me and brought me back to Shylock’s famed speech of much the same:

Hath not a Jew eyes? hath not a Jew hands, organs,
dimensions, senses, affections, passions? fed with
the same food, hurt with the same weapons, subject
to the same diseases, healed by the same means,
warmed and cooled by the same winter and summer, as
a Christian is? If you prick us, do we not bleed?
if you tickle us, do we not laugh? if you poison
us, do we not die?

Aye, we die. We die every day to be overlooked by those who do not consider us worthy. Her classmates heard her, I heard her, but who else? There are times when I want to get them to stand up, shout, scream, cry out for the world to hear them— what they feel, what they think, what they believe that is locked up inside them until they get a moment, however fleeting as an in-class assignment, to stand up and say what burns inside them. Plastic grins can’t hide the scars forever. Sooner or later, people will no longer be willing to just be invisible.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

No, I have not been abducted by cranially endowed creatures from another planet

Today's Thoughts...

Upon no uncertain threats of imminent disownment from my grandmother should I continue to neglect my beloved blog, I am FINALLY making a return some four months since my last post. The past several months have been something of a whirlwind trying to keep up with the frighteningly accelerating pace of life until my departure from Thailand in the Spring. Suffice it to say, that ever as much of the drama and hilarity has continued as before, perhaps even more so, in the past few months and certainly will continue to do so until I leave. In the hopes of regaining some dignity and respect from the blogging world (read: my grandmother), I shall resume more regular posting from here on out!



In efforts to bring life up to speed, I shall re-begin as it were with a brief note on my departure from Thailand for the holidays in December (complete with song!). Therefore, below I do post the text of an email sent to several friends over the holidays about my less than smooth exit from the kingdom:



Dearest friends,

As my father throbs the bass of what sounds like a mash-up between Ludacris and the Jackson Five in our basement at approximately 3 a.m. on a Thursday night, I thought I would snuggle up with a cup of steaming hot cocoa (read: melting Raisinets acquired at some unknown period of delirium during the past two days) in front of the bright roaring fire (illuminated PC screen) with the first dustings of snow on the ground (okay..true) to briefly recount the past 42 hours of my life leading to this moment. Said hours include but are not limited to a two hour conversation with an eager Pakistani man in an all-white tux adorned with a purple orchid, discovering a toilet commode with three exciting button-triggered functions in Tokyo, wandering through five airports in flip flops and the navy blue footwarmers courtesy of a former trip with British Airways, countless stares at said attire, and a Wendy's junior bacon cheeseburger with extra cheese and tomatoes.

As a therapeutic way of purging and reminiscing on these events while waiting on pending notice of luggage detained in JFK customs, I decided to write a song to the tune of “Twelve Days of Christmas” ;P Should you desire a bit of holiday ho ho ha ha and cheer, do read, and I hope enjoy as much as my neverending journey across the seas. Do excuse me while I laugh hysterically and faceplant on my childhood bed.

(Oh the good humor Asia has instilled in me :D)

Love to you all!


TWELVE DAYS FROM THAILAND

On the first day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
A visa from whence I can’t return!

On the second day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Two flights not flying!
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the third day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the fourth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the fifth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the sixth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the seventh day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the eighth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Eight degrees below freezing
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the ninth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Nine trips to potty
Eight degrees below freezing
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the tenth day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Ten toes frost-bitten
Nine trips to potty
Eight degrees below freezing
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the eleventh day of Christmas, vacation sent to me
Eleven minutes screaming
Ten toes frost-bitten
Nine trips to potty
Eight degrees below freezing
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

On the twelfth day of Christmas, vacation reminded me
Lauren, jai yen yen!!!!
Eleven minutes screaming
Ten toes frost-bitten
Nine trips to potty
Eight degrees below freezing
Seven bottles a-chugging
Six lines x-raying
Five hours of SLEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
Four waves of nausea
Three countries crossing
Two flights not flying
And a visa from whence I can’t return!

Oh a visa from whence I can’t RETURN!!!!!

(But did!)